Standard Resin

Standard resin is the baseline material for resin printers (MSLA/LCD). It is a liquid that cures under UV light layer by layer. Its main strength is phenomenal detail: you can see textures, fine facial features on a miniature, the thinnest elements. The trade-off is a brittle finished part and mandatory post-processing (washing and UV curing).

What it is good for

• Miniatures for tabletop games, wargaming, collections
• Figurines, busts, art models
• Prototypes and master models with fine detail
• Decor and jewelry masters

Where NOT to use it

• Functional parts under load — standard resin is brittle
• Parts that get dropped or bent — they will snap
• Outdoor items — they yellow and grow brittle from UV over time
• When you need impact resistance — use tough (ABS-like) or durable resin

How to print

• Normal layer exposure: ~2–3 s (depends on printer and resin)
• Bottom layer exposure: 20–40 s for reliable platform adhesion
• Layer height: 0.03–0.05 mm
• Cure wavelength: 405 nm (standard for consumer LCD)
• Angled orientation and supports reduce peel force and failure risk

Exact exposure values are dialed in with a test (such as the Cones of Calibration model) for your specific printer + resin pairing.

Washing, curing and storage

Resin is not dried like filament, but it is light-sensitive and needs post-processing.

• Washing: 3–5 minutes in isopropyl alcohol (IPA), then air-dry
• UV curing: 2–10 minutes in a wash & cure station — the part gains strength and stops being tacky
• Storage: bottle in a dark cool place, tightly sealed — light polymerizes resin
• Stir the resin before printing, especially if it has settled

Pros and cons

• Maximum surface detail
• Cheap and widely available
• Simple to print on any LCD printer
• Huge color range

• Brittle — poor impact and bending resistance
• Yellows and degrades under UV over time
• Needs washing and UV curing
• Liquid resin is toxic before curing