Elegoo Saturn 4 Mods: 22 Upgrades That Actually Work

The Elegoo Saturn 4 is a 2024 resin printer with a 10-inch 12K mono LCD (11520 x 5120), a 19 µm pixel, a 218.88 x 122.88 x 220 mm build volume and a top speed of 70 mm/h. This is the plain version: no tilting vat, no Wi-Fi, no camera and no resin heater — for $319 you get a screen from the flagship models and the bare minimum of electronics around it.

That's exactly why the Saturn 4 rewards modding. Everything it lacks compared to the Ultra can be bolted on with first-party accessories and printed parts: chamber heat from the official Mini Heater, odour control from an air purifier on the expansion port, service speed from a quick-release vat. Below are 22 upgrades owners actually run, from a $7 screen protector to editing machine parameters off a USB stick. For the factory quirks of this model, see our separate write-up on 20 known Elegoo Saturn 4 issues.

1. LCD screen protector

The cheapest insurance on this list. There is nothing between the vat and the screen: if the film tears or the vat seeps around its perimeter, resin lands straight on the LCD glass and cures there for good. A protector costs about $7, a replacement masking LCD costs $86.65 in our catalogue, and Elegoo's screen warranty runs for just three months and excludes resin leaks.

• Roughly twelve times cheaper than the screen it protects
• Five minutes to fit, and it takes the mess with it when you swap it
• It goes on top of the screen glass, like a phone protector only larger
• Owners on r/ElegooSaturn tape the edges down so a leak cannot creep underneath

Difficulty: easy, 10 minutes. Cost: about $7 in our catalogue, $16.99 for the Chitu Systems equivalent. Fitment: our catalogue lists the Saturn 3 and Saturn 4 version, while the Chitu Systems 10.1-inch 269 x 156 mm protector is sold for the Saturn 4 and Saturn 4 Ultra. More on vat leaks in our known issues breakdown.

2. Metal resin vat instead of the stock one

The stock Saturn 4 vat uses a plastic frame and a film cassette that gets punched over locating pins. A ragged punch acts like a wick: resin slowly creeps under the cassette and ends up on the glass above the screen. The aluminium alloy vat is the same part, only stiffer, it does not warp with temperature swings, and it ships with PFA film already installed.

• Aluminium alloy instead of a plastic frame — geometry stays put as the chamber warms
• PFA film comes pre-installed, so the first run needs no fiddling
• Shared part between Saturn 4 and Saturn 4 Ultra, so it is easy to source
• Handy as a second vat for a different resin: drain, swap, keep printing

Difficulty: easy — two thumb screws. Cost: $45.99 on the official store, about $42 in our catalogue. Fitment: Saturn 4 and Saturn 4 Ultra.

3. PFA film stock and its honest service life

PFA is the only film Elegoo officially sells for the Saturn 4: 273 x 176 mm, 0.127 mm thick, 92% light transmittance, rated for more than 60,000 releases. The printer turns its counter red at exactly 60,000 layers, but that number is nominal and unrelated to real load: film that only ever saw small parts near the edges lasts noticeably longer, while a dozen fully packed plates can tear it early.

• A 10-pack is $60 on the official store and around $14 in our catalogue — cheaper than one ruined print
• Replace by condition: sagging, waviness, deep grooves, milky patches in the centre
• Plain FEP lasts 30–50 prints; PFA and nFEP run two to three times longer
• The counter never resets itself — the reset button only appears after you run the self-check manually

Difficulty: easy for a whole cassette, medium if you tension film yourself. Cost: from about $14 for ten. Fitment: the entire Saturn 2/3/4 line including Ultra and Ultra 16K.

4. Chitu Systems Hoopat X4 quick-release vat

The everyday pain of resin printing is changing film. On a screw-down vat that means 20–30 minutes and several dozen screws that have to be torqued evenly or the film ends up crooked. The Hoopat is an all-metal vat with four clamps: film goes in inside 30 seconds and the frame sets the tension for you. The X4 version is built for the Saturn 4 and Saturn 4 Ultra and mounts with the printer's own vat screws.

• Film swap in 30 seconds versus 20–30 minutes on a screw-down vat
• Even tension around the perimeter — fewer failures and less premature film wear
• The updated version ships with a silicone seal ring against leaks
• Films come in both PFA and ACF flavours — which is how ACF reaches a plain Saturn 4 at all
• Honest downsides: Chitu films only, and the vat costs nearly twice as much as the stock one

Difficulty: medium — you have to seat the film correctly, and the designer of the factory seal ring recommends clamping the long sides first. Cost: $69.99 with one film, $89.99 with three. Fitment: X4 for Saturn 4 and Saturn 4 Ultra, X4H for the Ultra 16K. One owner on r/ElegooSaturn summed it up as "going from 30+ minutes and like 40 screws to 2 min and no screws".

5. ACF film: when it earns its price and when it does not

ACF is a composite film with a frosted side facing the LCD, sold as a way to cut peel force. There is a lot of confusion around it, and Elegoo is blunt in its official Saturn 4 series FAQ: ACF only helps printers with a straight pull-up release, not a tilting vat. The plain Saturn 4 is exactly a pull-up machine — but Elegoo does not list an ACF part number for it, only PFA.

What the measurements say. In the AmeraLabs film test, peak peel stress came out at 12 kPa for ACF, 13 kPa for 50 µm FEP and 127 µm nFEP, 17 kPa for 127 µm FEP and 19 kPa for 150 µm FEP. ACF also eats 7% of the light versus 1.5% for thin FEP, and on the same test model thin FEP was actually faster: 30 minutes 56 seconds against 34 minutes 54 seconds for ACF.

• ACF's real advantage is minimal peel force on large solid layers, not raw speed
• Switching to ACF means raising exposure by roughly 7% — the film absorbs more light
• Flat surfaces printed on ACF show visible vertical banding
• ACF and nFEP are rated around 30,000 layers versus roughly 10,000 for plain FEP
• On a Saturn 4 the practical route to ACF is the film bundles for the Hoopat X4 vat

Difficulty: advanced — a film change means recalibrating exposure. Cost: $84.99 for a five-pack from Elegoo, listed under the Saturn 3 Ultra part number. The plain-English verdict: printing miniatures, stay on PFA; running large solid parts and fighting peel failures, ACF is worth a look.

6. A second build plate

The Saturn 4 plate is rigid metal with a quick-release mount and mechanical self-levelling. A second one turns printing into a conveyor: pull the loaded plate, park it to drip, drop the spare in and start the next job instead of waiting for the first batch to soak in alcohol.

• The printer keeps working while the previous batch drips, washes and dries
• Scrape cured rafts off one plate while the other is already printing
• Quick-release mount — the plate comes off in one motion
• A spare saves you if the main plate gets bent or gouged with a chisel

Difficulty: easy. Cost: $50 on the official store, about $38 in our catalogue. Fitment: Saturn 4, Saturn 4 Ultra and Ultra 16K.

7. Flexible build plates: why they do not belong on a Saturn 4

The most common idea from anyone arriving from FDM: fit a flexible magnetic plate so prints pop off with a bend. On the Saturn 4 that does not work, and it is not a forum opinion — it is a note on the official product page: a flexible plate breaks auto-levelling, throws off resin level detection and can damage the LCD.

The mechanics are simple. Both levelling and resin level detection are built on force read by the mechanical sensor on the plate carrier: the printer lowers the plate and works out where zero is, and where the resin starts, from rising resistance. An extra layer of magnet and spring steel changes that force signature — the sensor either misses zero or drives the plate into the screen. Ultra owners do run Wham Bam steel plates, but only together with a separate gcode file that reflashes the levelling parameters, and that file is tuned for the Ultra, not the plain machine.

• The restriction is printed on the Saturn 4 product page, not buried in a forum thread
• Elegoo does not make magnetic or flexible plates for its resin printers at all
• Plastic razor blades are the safe way to release prints — a handle and a box of blades runs about $10
• If your bottom layers are overexposed, no plate will save you: cut exposure first

8. The official Elegoo Mini Heater

The plain Saturn 4 has no resin heater, and that is its main winter weakness: cold, thick resin flows under the model more slowly, clings harder to the film and needs different exposure. Elegoo solves it with a separate box: the Mini Heater warms the chamber air with a PTC element, switching itself on below 25 °C and off above it. The plain Saturn 4 is on the official compatibility list.

• 120 W PTC heating and a 10,000 rpm fan bring the chamber up quickly
• Automatic: heat on below 25 °C, off above — the threshold is fixed and cannot be changed
• Temperature display and a carbon filter compartment on the body, so it takes some odour with it
• Mounts on an adapter plate on the shell and plugs into the expansion port
• 59 x 71 x 133 mm, 24 V 5 A, 0.2 kg

Difficulty: medium — you have to fit the adapter plate to the rear wall. Cost: $46 on the official store, down from $84 in the August 2026 sale. Reviews are mixed: one owner on r/resinprinting argues the heater ruins prints, so treat it as a way to drag a cold room up to 25 °C rather than a magic quality button.

9. DIY resin heating with a thermostat

The alternative if you want a specific temperature rather than a fixed 25 °C: a heating mat or belt around or under the vat, a separate thermostat with its probe on the vat, and a target you set yourself. The author of a detailed build write-up used automotive heating strips and landed on +35…+37 °C in the vat, +36…+38 °C while printing with screen heat added, and a 40-minute warm-up.

What it buys you in numbers: the same resin needs 3 seconds per layer at 22 °C and 2.5 seconds at 30 °C — roughly 17% off print time. The ceiling is hard, though: above 40 °C light scatter grows and accuracy drops, and the printer itself aborts a job if the UV panel reaches 80 °C.

• Most resins want 25–30 °C; below 20 °C failures climb fast
• Heat for the whole job — warming up only before the start leaves late layers underexposed
• Put the thermostat probe on the vat, not on the heater, or the regulation lies
• The heater must not touch the LCD or press against the vat frame directly

Difficulty: advanced — you need to be comfortable with a thermostat and tidy wiring. Cost: roughly $16–37 for a mat and controller.

10. An air purifier on the expansion port

The Saturn 4 has an expansion port, and per the official FAQ two accessories plug into it: the Mini Heater and the large Mars Mate air purifier. The purifier pulls chamber air through a dense bed of activated carbon — up to 95% of volatile compounds according to the manufacturer — at 6 W and 35 dB. A VOC sensor inside reminds you when the cartridge is spent, and the filter lasts up to two months.

• It targets the smell itself: volatiles are captured by carbon, not by HEPA
• 6 W and 35 dB mean you can leave it running around the clock in a living room
• 210 x 247 x 410 mm including the hose connector — it fits under a desk
• The VOC sensor warns about a clogged filter and there is a reset button

Difficulty: easy — the hose simply seats in the expansion port. Cost: $139 on the official store, down from $175. One limitation to keep in mind: a purifier recirculates air inside the room and does not replace ducting to the outside — it clears the smell without getting the fumes out of the room.

11. Ducting to a window: inline fan and hose

The only way to actually get volatiles out of the room is to throw them outside. The working layout: printer and wash station inside a sealed box or tent, an inline centrifugal fan pulling a slight vacuum and pushing air out of a window through ducting. Owners on r/ElegooSaturn build this from a 76 x 46 x 91 cm grow tent and a 4-inch inline fan.

• It has to be an inline centrifugal fan — a cheap booster fan will not pull a vacuum
• Typical home-box airflow is 130–340 m³/h with a speed controller
• AC Infinity Cloudline S4 moves 180 m³/h; the Cloudline Lite A4 does 280 m³/h at 29 dB
• The printer needs 51–52 cm of depth and 76–78 cm of height with the lid up — size the box from that
• The DIY equivalent is acrylic in aluminium extrusion with two 120 mm 12 V fans

Difficulty: medium — the duct run and box sealing need care. Cost: from about $43 for a fan and ducting. The full treatment with measurements is in our guide to 3D printing fumes and ventilation.

12. A printed carbon filter for the vent port

The middle ground when there is no window nearby: a printed housing with carbon media and a fan that seats in the printer vent and slowly pushes chamber air through the carbon. The author of the Instructables build used a slim 92 mm fan at 2,700 rpm on USB power and kitchen carbon fleece cut into replaceable inserts.

• The consumable is plain carbon fleece, cut to a template in a minute
• USB powered, so you never touch the printer wiring
• Held together by four M3 threaded inserts in the printed housing
• Noticeably cuts the smell in the room with the lid closed

Difficulty: advanced — soldering, inserts and test fitting. Cost: from about $21 for the fan and carbon. Fitment: the project targets the Saturn 4 Ultra, so measure the port on a plain machine yourself. And keep the limitation in mind: a 25–50 mm carbon bed captures 40–60% of volatiles per air pass, and the carbon needs replacing every 6–12 months.

13. A printed vat drainer stand

Pouring resin back into the bottle without spilling is a two-hand job you rarely have hands for: one holds the vat, the other the funnel. A printed stand fixes that in one evening of printing — a height-adjustable cradle holds the vat at an angle, a funnel holder sits underneath and the bottle stands on a base. The most popular Saturn 4 version has 1,004 likes and 5,016 downloads on MakerWorld.

• The vat is locked at an angle so resin drains on its own
• Height adjusts on printed thumb bolts to suit any bottle
• A funnel holder is part of the model set
• The author recommends PETG — printed threads hold up far better than in PLA

Difficulty: medium — several parts to print and assemble. Cost: filament only. Fitment: listed for Saturn 4 and Saturn 4 Ultra.

14. A drip bracket for the build plate

The second printed accessory in the "why is this not in the box" category. A freshly pulled plate carries a real layer of resin that drips on your desk and hands. The bracket parks it at 10–12 degrees straight over the vat: a couple of minutes and the excess is back where it belongs, and only then does the plate go to the wash.

• Resin returns to the vat instead of your bench and paper towels
• Frees your hands — the plate stands on its own while you wash parts
• Prints in an evening; it only needs dense infill and at least four perimeters
• Separate Thingiverse designs drawn for the Ultra 16K will not fit a plain machine: they hook onto the extra plate handles of the 16K version

Difficulty: easy. Cost: filament only. Fitment: the author lists the whole Saturn 4 line, the plain model included.

15. A vat holder on aluminium extrusion

The same idea taken further for anyone whose desk is permanently full: the vat hangs on a 2020 aluminium extrusion beside the printer, held by the printer's own thumb screw. The extrusion stands vertically, the vat locks at an angle over a funnel, and draining becomes a single movement with no sticky patches left on the bench.

• The desk stays clear — vat and funnel live on the stand
• It mounts with the printer thumb screw, no bodging required
• You need a 400 mm length of 2020 extrusion, M5 hardware and one M4 nut
• 150 likes and 591 downloads on MakerWorld — a community-proven design

Difficulty: medium — you have to buy the extrusion and hardware. Cost: filament plus roughly $5–9 for the extrusion and fasteners.

16. A handle for the lid

A small thing that grates daily: the Saturn 4 lid has no handle, so you grab it by the edges with the same fingers that just held the build plate. A printed two-part handle glued with CA and stuck on with double-sided tape solves it in one evening. In the "what should Elegoo fix in a Saturn 5" thread on r/ElegooSaturn, a proper lid handle is one of the most common answers.

• The lid opens with one finger and the edges stay clean
• The part prints in two halves, so it fits any build plate
• Saturn 4 and Saturn 4 Ultra share the same lid, so the model suits both
• 49 likes and 177 downloads — niche, but it works

Difficulty: easy. Cost: filament, glue and tape.

17. A funnel with a filter and a tool organiser

Resin needs filtering after every failed print: cured fragments left in the vat turn into craters and extra peel events on the next job. Disposable paper funnels do not last, so the community prints a larger funnel that takes a replaceable 500-mesh nylon screen. A printed organiser for the stock tools belongs right next to it — otherwise scrapers and spatulas live all over the desk.

• A replaceable screen instead of a stack of disposable paper filters
• A bigger funnel lets you drain the whole vat in one go
• The printed organiser keeps spatulas, scrapers and blades in one place
• Plastic razor blades for releasing prints cost about $10 for a handle and a box, and they do not scratch the plate

Difficulty: easy. Cost: filament plus the mesh. For the models themselves, see our round-up of sites with free 3D models. And remember the golden rule of vat care: never work the stock plastic scraper across the film — it hazes the surface, after which prints start sticking harder.

18. UVtools — editing the sliced file before printing

The one genuinely powerful software mod for this machine. UVtools opens an already sliced file and walks it layer by layer, showing islands that will print in mid-air, sealed pockets that will trap resin and suction cups that can rip a part off the plate. Version 6.2.0 shipped on 6 August 2026, the last commit landed on 20 August 2026, and .goo is supported from version 5.0 through 5.2.

Two features matter most on a Saturn 4. Pixel Dimming darkens the perimeter of the first layers and compensates the elephant foot this machine develops thanks to its spring-loaded plate. And manual blur: the community reports that anti-aliasing in .goo files does not take effect on the Saturn 4, and the printer reads no other format, so softened edges have to be added here.

• Islands, suction cups and resin traps flagged before the print, not after
• Elephant foot compensation by dimming perimeter pixels
• View and edit individual layers inside the file
• Conversion between slicer formats
• The project is alive — regular releases and current .goo support

Difficulty: advanced, though the interface clicks in an evening. Cost: free. One caution: some owners have had .goo files break after being re-saved in UVtools, so run the first edited file as a short test print.

19. Calibrating exposure for your own resin

The stock Saturn 4 profile from the manual is a 0.05 mm layer, 2.5 s exposure and five bottom layers at 35 s. That is a starting point for a "typical" resin, not the truth: every bottle reacts differently, and half the complaints about prints welding themselves to the plate or losing fine detail are fixed by exposure, not by hardware.

How to calibrate sensibly: print a test model that shows both overexposure and underexposure at a glance. Two proven options are AmeraLabs Town, with its checkerboard, 0.1–1.0 mm gaps and bridges, and Cones of Calibration V3, with an exposure block and a fine-detail test. Cutting bottom exposure deserves its own pass: Saturn 4 owners take it down to 18 s on ABS-like resin and prints stop welding themselves to the plate.

• Stock values: 0.05 mm layer, 2.5 s exposure, five bottom layers at 35 s
• Overexposed bottom layers are the main reason a print refuses to come off
• Recalibrate after changing film or resin
• With the chamber held at 30 °C you can usually shave exposure a little further

Difficulty: easy but patient — two or three hours of test prints. Cost: free apart from resin. General defect hunting lives in our resin printing troubleshooting guide and the beginner guide to resin printing.

20. Lift speeds and rest times for a tilt-free peel

The plain Saturn 4 has no tilting vat: the plate peels each layer straight up, over the full area at once. The only tools to soften that are speed and pauses. The stock Saturn algorithm runs in four stages: 3.5 mm of lift at 2.0 mm/s, another 3.5 mm at 3.0 mm/s, 1.14 mm of retract at 3.5 mm/s and a slow 3 mm descent at 1.2 mm/s just before exposure. The Saturn 4 manual lists its own figures: 65 + 180 mm/min lifting and 180 + 65 mm/min retracting.

• If you set a constant lift speed in CHITUBOX, keep it at or below 2.5 mm/s (150 mm/min) or you risk skipped steps
• Rest before exposure lets resin flow back under the model — on large areas that beats raw speed
• Cold, thick resin needs a longer pause; warm resin lets you shorten it
• Large solid layers are better tilted in the slicer so less area peels at once

Difficulty: advanced — change one parameter at a time and write down the result. Cost: free.

21. Editing machine parameters from a USB stick

The riskiest item on the list, and the most interesting. Machine parameters on these printers are dumped and loaded as a plain gcode file from a USB stick. Inside that dump owners found the force target that auto-levelling compresses the spring-loaded plate to, and an engineer comment right next to it: -1 mm recommended, larger values may damage the screen. The factory setting is -3 mm.

That single number explains two familiar complaints: bloated bottom layers — owners measured rafts at 1.9 mm and 2.98 mm instead of 1 mm — and pressure damage to the LCD from constant over-compression. Editing the parameter fixes both, but the price of a mistake is a dead machine with no warranty. Concrete values and risks are covered in our Saturn 4 known issues article.

• Dump the current parameters first and keep a backup of that file
• Change one value at a time and print a calibration cube after each step
• A bloated raft is the first sign the force target is too high
• Not willing to risk it? Compensate elephant foot in UVtools instead

22. A wash and cure station that fits a 219 mm plate

The Saturn 4 plate measures 218.88 mm on its long side, and that breaks half the popular wash stations. The Mercury Plus V3.0 washes 230 x 135 x 260 mm in basket mode but only 214 x 135 x 180 mm with the plate clamped in — so the Saturn 4 plate does not hang, and prints have to come off and go in the basket. The compact Mercury XS has an even smaller 201 x 124 x 255 mm chamber. Reviewers found the same thing: the new quick-release Saturn 4 plate does not fit older Mercury wash stations.

• A 7.5 litre basket, 114% larger than the previous generation
• A 250 x 290 mm curing chamber swallows almost anything the Saturn 4 can print
• 24 UV LEDs at 405 nm and a rotating turntable cure from every side
• 0–30 minute timer, 60 W, 4.7 kg
• An ultrasonic cleaner is the alternative: 20–40 kHz, a 10 litre tank and about 2 litres of 90%+ IPA

Difficulty: easy. Cost: $129 on the official store, down from $199.99, about $101 in our catalogue. From the reviews: miniatures come clean after two 2-minute ultrasonic cycles in 99% IPA, and parts should air-dry for 15–30 minutes or be blown off with compressed air before curing, otherwise trapped solvent leaves a white bloom. What happens next — sanding, priming, painting — is covered in our print post-processing guide. The whole routine is covered in our wash and cure guide.

Where to start: the order that makes sense

Fit everything at once and you lose track of which change did what. A sane order looks like this:

1. Screen protector and a stock of PFA film. This is hygiene, not an upgrade — do it on day one.
2. Exposure calibration for your resin. Half of what people call "printer problems" disappears here, for free.
3. A printed drip bracket and vat drainer. One evening of printing keeps your hands and bench clean.
4. A wash and cure station. Without one, post-processing eats more time than printing does.
5. Ventilation or an air purifier. The more you print, the more this one is about your health.
6. Chamber heating — if your room runs cold. Below 20 °C, failures climb fast.
7. A metal or quick-release vat and a second plate — once service time becomes your bottleneck.
8. UVtools and machine parameters last, when everything else already works.

And keep the consumables that run out on the shelf: PFA film and, if you print heavily, a spare masking LCD. The rated screen life is around 2,000 hours; owners of MSLA machines report anywhere from 500 to 2,000 in practice, and waiting a week for delivery with a dead screen hurts more than buying one early. General upkeep is covered in our 3D printer maintenance guide.

What not to bother with

Four pieces of advice that travel around mod round-ups and do not hold up on a Saturn 4:

• A flexible magnetic plate. Officially incompatible: it breaks auto-levelling and can damage the screen.
• ACF film for speed. In the AmeraLabs measurements, thin FEP printed the same model faster than ACF. ACF buys peel force on large parts, and you pay with 7% of the light and a recalibration.
• A HEPA purifier against odour. HEPA only captures particles. Volatiles need activated carbon, and even then it is 40–60% per pass.
• Klipper or third-party firmware. The Saturn 4 board is closed and its firmware is signed. There is no working root method in the open as of August 2026, and projects like NanoDLP target DIY machines with open controllers.

One more trap is buying accessories "by model name". The vat and lid are shared between the Saturn 4 and the Saturn 4 Ultra, but printed holders drawn for the 16K version often will not fit a plain machine: the 16K plate carries extra handles those models are built around. Check the exact revision, not just the word Saturn.

Sources

• Elegoo — official Saturn 4 series FAQ: films, expansion port, heater threshold, temperature sensor
• Elegoo Mini Heater — specs, compatibility list, price
• Elegoo Mercury Plus V3.0 — wash and cure chamber dimensions
• Elegoo Mars Mate — carbon air purifier
• Elegoo — how the Z-axis lifting mechanism works on Saturn: speeds and stages
• Elegoo — warranty periods by part
• AmeraLabs — ACF vs nFEP vs FEP film comparison: peel force, transmittance, print time
• AmeraLabs Town — exposure calibration test print
• Cones of Calibration V3 — alternative exposure test
• UVtools on GitHub — v6.2.0, .goo support
• Chitu Systems Hoopat — quick-release vat, versions and pricing
• Hoopat review on First Quadcopter — which version fits which printer
• Adjustable resin vat drainer for Saturn 4 on MakerWorld
• Saturn 4 drip bracket on MakerWorld
• Saturn 4 vat holder on MakerWorld
• Saturn 4 lid lift handle on MakerWorld
• Printed carbon filter on Instructables
• Hoopat discussion on r/ElegooSaturn
• Manual levelling on the plain Saturn 4, r/ElegooSaturn
• Machine parameters and elephant foot write-up, r/ElegooSaturn
• The .goo anti-aliasing debate on r/ElegooSaturn
• Stable resin heating — DIY build write-up
• Elegoo Saturn 4 review on 3DWithUs — support density and washing tests

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