The QIDI Box unit mounted on top of the enclosed CoreXY QIDI Q2 — the same chassis as the Q2C
The QIDI Box sits on top of the printer — one bundle for multicolor printing (photo: Tom's Hardware)

The QIDI Box is a 4-slot external unit for multicolor and multi-material printing on the QIDI Q2C: it feeds up to four spools in sequence, chains up to four units for as many as 16 filaments in a single model, dries filament at up to 65°C while printing, and reads spools over NFC. It's QIDI's answer to the Bambu AMS and Creality CFS — just note that QIDI calls it the QIDI Box (the "CFS" acronym belongs to Creality, so don't mix the brands up).

The Q2C itself is the budget Q2, around $379–409: an enclosed CoreXY with a 270×270×256 mm build volume, a bimetal nozzle up to 370°C and a bed to 120°C, but no active chamber heater. For multicolor PLA and PETG that's plenty (more on the machine in our QIDI Q2C review, and how it differs from its big brother in Q2 vs Q2C). Below: how to connect and set up the QIDI Box, how to cut flush waste, and what to do about the known feeding issues.

What the QIDI Box is and what you need for the Q2C

Inside the QIDI Box are four independent feeders (one 42 stepper and a pair of hardened dual gears per slot), a sealed drying chamber with temperature and humidity sensors, and a hub that merges the four channels into one path to the extruder. The unit measures 357×300×234 mm, weighs 4.35 kg, and draws up to 245W. On its own it costs about $228. Like the Bambu AMS, the QIDI Box runs through a single nozzle — colors change one at a time, so this is sequential multicolor, not simultaneous multi-material.

  • In the box: the QIDI Box, the hub, 5 PTFE tubes, power and signal cables, tube guides, desiccant, and two quick-start guides — one for Q2 and one for Plus4.
  • What matters for the Q2C: use the Q2 version of the signal hub cable (the Plus4 cable is different and won't work — the unit itself is universal).
  • What you won't need: the bundled Plus4 extruder upgrade — it's neither needed nor compatible on the Q2/Q2C, so just set it aside.
  • Spools: 50–72 mm wide, 195–202 mm in diameter. Don't use cardboard spools — they shed dust and add friction.

Connecting the QIDI Box to the Q2C: step by step

Rear of the QIDI printer showing QIDI Box PTFE tubes, signal cables, a guide bar and the instruction label
The rear panel: four PTFE tubes and the signal cables run from the hub to the unit and tuck behind the printer

Loading filament and NFC

To load, push the filament tip a couple of centimeters into the port in front of the spool — the unit grabs it, with a clacking sound like a roller coaster climbing a hill (that's normal). Unloading is done only from the printer's screen: the filament is locked in the gears and can't be pulled free by hand. Genuine QIDI spools with NFC tags are recognized automatically — type, color and profile load themselves. For third-party spools you enter the type and color on the screen, then sync with the slicer. Not sure which filament suits multicolor? See our filament guide.

Slicing multicolor in QIDI Studio and the flush

You prep prints in QIDI Studio, which is built on Bambu Studio, so the workflow is familiar: assign colors to parts of the model, enable the prime tower, and send the job. The stock profiles are solid. You can also drive the printer through the Fluidd web interface (the Q2C runs Klipper) — reviewers found it more reliable than the official mobile app. One gotcha: the filament list on the printer screen must match the slicer, or the print won't start.

A box full of curly filament offcuts — purge waste from multicolor printing
The flip side of multicolor: purge waste. You can — and should — cut down how much of it you make

On every color change, some of the old filament stays in the nozzle and the new color pushes it out — that's the flush (purge). Too little gives a muddy, blended color; too much wastes filament and time. QIDI Studio auto-calculates the flush volume per "from → to" pair: the bigger the contrast, the larger the flush, and a dark → light change (black into white) needs several times more than light into dark. With a 0.2 mm nozzle the change is especially slow because of the volumetric-speed limit. If colors still blend, raise the flush Multiplier.

  • Flush into support (on by default) — transition colors go into supports you'll remove anyway. Great on models with large support areas.
  • Flush into infill — transitions hide inside the part, invisible from outside. Don't enable it for transparent filament, or the mixed color shows through.
  • Flush into object — pick a sacrificial part (say, internal gears or bolts) to absorb the transitions. Needs 2+ objects on the plate.
  • All three modes only work with the prime tower enabled.

Drying — the QIDI Box's real trump card

The unit's strongest feature is active drying at up to 65°C while printing — something the Bambu AMS can't do, and a real help for nylon, PC and PETG. Before drying, unload all filament (the unload button on screen) — the start button lights up once the slots are empty; then close the top lid. The tray rotates every 5 minutes for even heating, and above 35°C a fan kicks in so PLA doesn't soften. Open the rear vent for a while every hour or two to let moisture out, and close it by the end of the cycle. For the signs of wet filament and drying temps by material, see how to dry filament.

The honest part: friction and jams

The main flaw of early QIDI Box units is friction in the feed path. In Tom's Hardware's test of the Q2 + Box, the hub was far too tight and the near-90° bend of the Bowden tube into the extruder became a second choke point: single color fed fine, but four colors jammed constantly and no multicolor print finished — the verdict was "a great filament dryer, but not much else." QIDI said it was an early unit and shipped a revised version with better entry guides and a buffer. Real owners (for example this 3DToday teardown) hit filament snapping inside the PTFE tube and jams in the feed head; repairability is poor — clearing the head means fully opening the housing.

A printed riser with ventilation slots that lifts the QIDI Box lid above the extruder
The riser lifts the unit and softens the Bowden tube's bend — a simple fix for jams
  • Print the lid riser — it lifts the unit and eases the Bowden tube's bend into the extruder (files are on the QIDI wiki).
  • Add guides to the inlet ports. Proven mods are the Qidi Box jam resistant filament guide (tube supports + a new hub enclosure) and the QIDI BOX PTFE Filament Saver.
  • Watch the PTFE tubes. Even minor damage adds friction — QIDI's maintenance guide says replace tubes when you feel steady resistance, especially after abrasive CF/GF filaments.
  • Flexibles come with a caveat. Only TPU of 64D or harder feeds through the QIDI Box; load soft flex straight into the extruder (see our TPU on QIDI guide).
  • Check your unit revision and firmware. The revised QIDI Box with the improved path behaves noticeably better than the earliest batches.

QIDI Box error codes (QDE)

CodeCauseWhat to do
QDE_004_001Filament didn't pass through the hub (sensor fault)Check hub wiring; untangle and straighten the filament
QDE_004_002Filament already in the channel, can't loadUnload the filament first, then load again
QDE_004_005No material detected during feedReload/swap the spool; while printing, hit Retry or run TRYMOVE_AGAIN in the Klipper console
QDE_004_006Filament didn't reach the extruderCheck the spool winding, the PTFE tube above the extruder (kinked/not seated) and the hub for debris
QDE_004_009Filament return failedCheck the cutter blade for wear and the hub for dust
QDE_004_013Tangle detected during print (pause)Untangle the filament and resume the print
QDE_004_001
Cause: Filament didn't pass through the hub (sensor fault) · What to do: Check hub wiring; untangle and straighten the filament
QDE_004_002
Cause: Filament already in the channel, can't load · What to do: Unload the filament first, then load again
QDE_004_005
Cause: No material detected during feed · What to do: Reload/swap the spool; while printing, hit Retry or run TRYMOVE_AGAIN in the Klipper console
QDE_004_006
Cause: Filament didn't reach the extruder · What to do: Check the spool winding, the PTFE tube above the extruder (kinked/not seated) and the hub for debris
QDE_004_009
Cause: Filament return failed · What to do: Check the cutter blade for wear and the hub for dust
QDE_004_013
Cause: Tangle detected during print (pause) · What to do: Untangle the filament and resume the print

Results and what to print

Multicolor models printed on a QIDI: toy cars, a chassis and accessories
What multicolor unlocks: toys, models and functional parts in several colors

The best filament for multicolor is PLA: it's stable, purges easily and forgives small feed hiccups. PETG works too but wants a bit more flush. Skip soft TPU through the unit. If you hit jams or stringing, see our guides on nozzle clogs and stringing. For multicolor ABS/ASA, the bigger QIDI Q2 with its active 65°C chamber is the better pick — the Q2C's open chamber can let large parts in those materials warp.

FAQ

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