PVB

PVB (polyvinyl butyral) is a filament for good-looking parts, and its defining trait is that the surface smooths with isopropyl alcohol vapor. That gives glossy, nearly transparent models with no sanding or priming — much like ABS is smoothed with acetone, except isopropyl alcohol is safer and easier to handle. To print, PVB behaves a lot like PLA: low temperatures, no enclosure needed, no special tricks. Its strength is on par with the lower tier of PETG, so people choose PVB for looks and transparency rather than for mechanical loads.

What it's good for

• Transparent and translucent models — vases, shades, lighting housings, diffusers.
• Decorative and gift items with a glass-like gloss after alcohol smoothing.
• Models that need a smooth finish without sanding: figurines, souvenirs, blanks for painting.
• Jewelry and craft blanks where a smooth, mirror-like surface matters.
• Display and showcase pieces where appearance matters more than strength.

Where not to use it

• Load-bearing functional parts — PVB is softer and weaker than engineering plastics, with worse layer adhesion than PLA.
• Parts exposed to heat — heat resistance is low, close to PLA, so a part deforms even under moderate warmth.
• Outdoor or humid use without protection — the material is hygroscopic and gradually clouds and degrades.
• Parts that contact alcohol or solvents in service — the surface softens and runs.

How to print

• Nozzle temperature: 200–220 °C (typically around 215 °C). Tune per spool.
• Bed temperature: 60–75 °C; start at the higher end for reliable first-layer adhesion.
• Enclosure and chamber are not needed — it prints on an open machine like PLA.
• Cooling: on, like PLA; for maximum transparency lower it slightly so layers fuse better.
• Speed: moderate, PLA-level; print slower for transparent walls and vase mode.
• Nozzle: a standard brass nozzle works; a hardened nozzle isn't required (the material isn't abrasive).
• For transparent parts a larger nozzle (0.6–0.8 mm) with single-wall vase mode works best.
• Adhesion: a clean bed, glue stick if needed; parts release easily.
• Retraction: tune as for PLA to avoid stringing; overheated PVB strings.

Drying and storage

PVB is noticeably hygroscopic and readily absorbs moisture from the air. Wet filament prints with crackling and bubbles and clouds over, losing its key value — transparency. Dry the spool before printing and keep it dry afterward.

• Drying: about 60 °C for 4–6 hours in a filament dryer or a temperature-controlled oven.
• Storage: an airtight box or bag with desiccant; ideally print straight from the dryer.
• Signs of moisture: crackling and steam while printing, bubbles and rough walls, cloudiness instead of transparency, stringing.

Pros and cons

• Smooths with isopropyl alcohol vapor — a glass-like gloss without sanding.
• Transparent and translucent parts beyond what regular PLA and PETG can do.
• Easy to print, close to PLA: low temperatures, no enclosure or hardened nozzle.
• Not abrasive — won't wear out a brass nozzle.
• Alcohol is safer than the acetone used to smooth ABS.

• Softer and weaker than engineering plastics; worse layer adhesion than PLA — not for loaded parts.
• Low heat resistance, like PLA — a part deforms under moderate heat.
• Hygroscopic — needs drying and dry storage, otherwise it loses transparency.
• More expensive than PLA at comparable strength.
• Sensitive to alcohol and solvents in service — the same trait that enables smoothing limits chemical contact.