Snapmaker U1 Enclosure Guide: Best Options Compared

The Snapmaker U1 is one of the most exciting multi-tool 3D printers on the market. However, it ships without a full enclosure — only a partial frame around the build area. For PLA and PETG printing, this is perfectly fine, but if you want to work with ABS, ASA, PA (nylon), or polycarbonate, you need a closed chamber. An enclosure also reduces noise, protects from dust, and prevents drafts that cause warping and layer delamination.

In this guide, we compare four main enclosure options for the Snapmaker U1: from the official $149 solution to free 3D-printable designs. We cover cost, assembly difficulty, achievable chamber temperature, and other key characteristics.

Comparison Table

Official Top Cover ($149)

The official enclosure from Snapmaker is the most convenient and well-engineered option. It installs on top of the printer without any modifications or tools. The standout feature is a three-layer air filtration system: a primary filter, HEPA12 filter, and modified activated carbon. This system effectively captures PM2.5 particles, dust, odors, and harmful gases released during filament melting.

The Top Cover provides passive chamber heating up to 50 °C — sufficient for stable ABS, ASA, and even PA printing. The printer automatically switches between high and low chamber temperature modes depending on the filament, so there is no need to open the door for PLA. A magnetic front door provides easy access to the build area without removing the entire enclosure.

• Pros:
  • Tool-free installation, ready-to-use out of the box
  • HEPA + carbon filter — safe for residential use
  • Automatic ventilation mode
  • Magnetic door for quick access
  • Up to 6 dB noise reduction
• Cons:
  • $149 price — more expensive than all alternatives
  • No active chamber heating
  • Passive heating only, up to 50 °C

IKEA SAMLA (~$20)

The most budget-friendly enclosure option is the IKEA SAMLA 45-liter storage container. The dimensions of this plastic box are a near-perfect fit for the Snapmaker U1, and all you need are 3D-printed adapters that attach to the rubber packing on top of the printer. No screws or bolts required.

The community has developed numerous adapter designs. The basic version by Gur Telem simply mounts the SAMLA to the printer. Advanced versions add sliding ventilation — you can push the box back by ~40 mm, creating an adjustable exhaust gap for heat dissipation when printing PLA. Some designs include cutouts for exhaust fans and even a front-facing USB port.

1. Buy an IKEA SAMLA 45L container (item 102.063.56) — the box only, no lid needed.
2. Print 4 adapter feet (PLA or PETG, 40%+ infill).
3. Attach the adapters to the rubber packing on top of the printer.
4. Place the container upside down onto the adapters.
5. Optional: print a rear bracket with ventilation slot.

• Pros:
  • Cheapest option ($20–30)
  • Simple 10-minute setup
  • Available at any IKEA store
  • Many community adapter designs available
• Cons:
  • No air filtration
  • Plastic becomes cloudy over time
  • Inconvenient access — must remove entire container
  • Lower chamber temperature than other options

Srin Top Hat (3D-Printed Enclosure)

The Srin Top Hat is a full 3D-printed enclosure designed by the community member Srin. The project is available for free on Printables and GitHub. This is the most advanced DIY option — closest to the official enclosure in terms of quality and functionality.

The design consists of 3D-printed frame components and 3 mm polycarbonate panels. Four mounting feet attach to the rubber packing on the U1. The top surface of the printed parts features a grid of M3x4x5 heat-set insert holes spaced 10 mm apart, allowing you to mount custom accessories such as a chamber heater, electronics enclosure, camera mount, and more.

Three design variants are available: the original model with a sloped top, a Huge Slope version, and a No Slope version. Assembly requires: 30 wooden dowel pins (6 mm diameter, 30–40 mm length), 3M VHB double-sided tape (10 mm width), foam tape (1 mm thick, 10 mm wide), and a 3 mm polycarbonate panel for the top cover (363 mm x 242 mm).

• Pros:
  • Professional appearance
  • Modular design with heat-set inserts
  • Option to install heater and camera
  • Three design variants (sloped, huge slope, no slope)
• Cons:
  • Requires 3D printing of main parts (10+ hours)
  • Polycarbonate panels and hardware must be purchased separately
  • Medium assembly difficulty
  • No filtration out of the box

Full DIY Enclosure

If none of the ready-made options suit your needs, you can build an enclosure from scratch. Clearview Plastics offers pre-cut acrylic and PVC panels for the U1, but you can also source your own materials. Popular choices include: acrylic sheets (transparent, heat-resistant up to ~80 °C), polycarbonate (impact-resistant, withstands up to 120 °C), and MDF or plywood with an acrylic window.

When designing a DIY enclosure, keep several key points in mind. Ventilation is essential — the chamber must not overheat during PLA printing. Leave clearance for cables and the filament spool. For high-temperature materials, add weatherstripping around the perimeter. If you plan to print ABS or ASA indoors, install an exhaust fan with a HEPA and activated carbon filter.

Clearview Plastics offers an External Enclosure V2 for the U1 starting at ~$80. It includes 1/4-inch PVC panels with a clear acrylic front panel. Available add-ons include: HEPA filter with activated carbon, recirculating filter, exhaust fan with a 4-inch hose adapter, LED lighting, and a 6th base panel for a more sealed build.

• Pros:
  • Complete freedom in design and dimensions
  • Can add any filtration and ventilation
  • Potentially best sealing and chamber temperature
• Cons:
  • Highest complexity and time to build
  • Cost may exceed the official top cover
  • Requires design and material-working skills

Chamber Temperature: Real-World Measurements

The Snapmaker U1 has a built-in chamber thermometer, so you can monitor temperature directly from the printer interface. The key factor is passive heating: the heated bed (100 °C) and hotend (up to 300 °C) are the only heat sources. The more airtight the enclosure, the higher the chamber temperature.

For ABS printing, a chamber temperature of 40–50 °C is recommended; for ASA — 40–45 °C; for PA (nylon) — 45–55 °C. Polycarbonate requires 50–60 °C and above, which is only achievable with active chamber heating. For most use cases, any of the enclosures discussed here will provide adequate temperature. If you need a consistent 50 °C+, consider installing an additional PTC heater inside the Srin Top Hat or a DIY enclosure.

Which Enclosure Should You Choose?

The right enclosure depends on your needs, budget, and skill level. If you want the simplest plug-and-play solution with built-in air filtration — go with the Official Top Cover. For those who want a quick and cheap way to enclose the chamber, the IKEA SAMLA is an excellent starting point. The Srin Top Hat suits enthusiasts who want a professional result at a moderate cost and are willing to invest time in 3D printing and assembly. A fully custom DIY enclosure makes sense if you have non-standard requirements or plan major printer modifications.

In any case, even the simplest IKEA SAMLA enclosure dramatically expands what the Snapmaker U1 can do. It enables confident printing with engineering plastics, reduces noise, and protects the printer from dust. And as your experience grows, you can always upgrade to a more advanced solution.